What Is Paracord? Types, 550 Cord Uses & a Bushcraft Cordage Kit

What is paracord and how is it built?

Paracord is short for parachute cord: it was developed as suspension line for parachutes and later became the general-purpose utility cord of soldiers, and then of hikers and bushcrafters. Technically it is a small kernmantle cord, from the German words for core (Kern) and sheath (Mantel):

• The sheath (mantle) is a tube braided from many fine nylon yarns. It protects the core from abrasion, gives the cord its round shape and colour, and carries a good part of the load.
• The core (kern) consists of several separate inner strands lying loosely side by side. In Type III cord there are seven to nine of them, and each strand is itself twisted from two or three finer yarns.

Sheath and core are not glued together. That is why you can pull the inner strands out and use them separately – and why a cut end must be sealed, or the sheath slides back and the core creeps out.

This construction explains the character of paracord. It is supple, knots easily, is pleasantly round in the hand and very strong for its weight. It is also elastic: by specification, parachute cord has to stretch by at least 30 % before it breaks. That stretch protected parachutists from opening shock; under a tarp it means a line that sags when it gets wet. More on that in the section on nylon and polyester.

What does "550" mean? Breaking strength vs safe working load

The number in "550 paracord" is the minimum breaking strength in pounds for Type III cord: 550 lb, about 249 kg or 2.4 kN. It is a laboratory figure for a new, dry, straight piece of cord, pulled slowly and evenly until it fails. In camp, almost nothing about a cord matches those conditions.

• Knots bend the fibres sharply and can cost roughly 20–50 % of the strength, depending on the knot and how well it is dressed – see knot strength and safety.
• Sharp bends and edges – a thin branch stub, a metal ring, a tent stake – concentrate the load on a few fibres.
• Water makes nylon a little weaker and a lot stretchier; sunlight, abrasion and age weaken it permanently.
• Jerks multiply the force. A load that drops even a short way into a cord pulls far harder than its weight.

For this reason, riggers never work with breaking strength. They use a safe working load: a small fraction of the breaking strength. A common rule of thumb for general-purpose cordage is no more than about one fifth for a steady load, and one tenth or less when knots, wear and movement are involved. For Type III paracord that puts the sensible working range at roughly 25–50 kg of static load – a food bag, a wet tarp in wind, a pot over the fire. This is a rule of thumb, not a rating: commercial paracord is rarely tested piece by piece, and there is no certificate behind the number on the packet.

Paracord types: Type I to IV, micro and nano cord

The familiar type numbers come from the US military specification for nylon parachute cord. Shops use them as generic size classes, and have added "micro" and "nano" cord below Type I for crafts and small repairs. The figures below are the widely published nominal values. Treat them as an order of magnitude: commercial cord varies from maker to maker and is usually not individually tested.

Mil-spec vs commercial paracord

"Mil-spec" means the cord is made to the military specification: nylon sheath and nylon core, a defined number of inner strands (in Type III each one twisted from three yarns), a minimum strength and a minimum stretch, usually with a coloured marker thread in the core that identifies the manufacturer. "Commercial" or "550-style" cord copies the look and the size, but the maker decides the details: inner strands are often two-ply, the count may be lower, and the fibre may be polyester or a blend.

Neither is automatically better for camping. Commercial cord is fine for guylines and general use and comes in bright colours that are easy to find in the leaf litter. What matters is that you know what you have:

• Count the strands. Cut a short piece, push the sheath back and count. Seven or more inner strands in a 4 mm cord is a good sign; three or four thick, fluffy ones means a decorative cord.
• Feel it. Good cord is firm and round and keeps its shape when pinched. Cord that flattens easily has a thin core.
• Melt an end. Nylon and polyester melt to a hard, glossy bead. A cord that chars or burns like paper contains other fibres.
• Buy by description, not by slogan. "Type III, 7 strands, nylon/nylon" tells you something. "Survival strength" does not.

Nylon or polyester: stretch when wet, UV and melting

Classic paracord is nylon (polyamide). Much of the cheaper cord sold as paracord is polyester. The two look alike and behave differently, and the difference matters most on a tarp.

The practical consequence: a nylon ridgeline tensioned drum-tight on a dry evening will hang slack after an hour of rain, because wet nylon lengthens. That is not a defect, just a property. Either re-tension the line – which is why adjustable knots matter – or use low-stretch cord for the lines that must stay tight. Our guide to rigging a tarp ridgeline shows the set-up.

Both fibres melt long before wood burns, and neither survives contact with flame, embers or a hot pot. A cord that hangs over a fire needs distance and should carry its load on a wooden hook or a green stick, not on the cord itself. Sparks from resinous wood leave pinholes in a sheath that you only notice when it fails – one more reason for the regular check described under care and retiring.

Pre-stretching a nylon line

New nylon cord can also shrink a little the first time it gets soaked and dries again. If you want a ridgeline that behaves predictably, deal with both effects at home once:

Bank line vs paracord – and the other cords worth carrying

Paracord became the default mostly because it is everywhere. For several camp jobs another cord is better, lighter or cheaper, and experienced bushcrafters usually carry two or three kinds. The most common question is bank line vs paracord, so start there.

Tarred bank line is a twisted or braided nylon twine soaked in tar, originally made for fishing set lines. It is sold by size number: #12 is about 1.5 mm with a nominal strength of roughly 45 kg, #36 about 2 mm and roughly 150 kg – figures that vary by maker. For lashings, tripods, pot hangers, tie-out loops and repairs it is hard to beat, because every turn locks on the one below. It is too thin for a comfortable ridgeline and too abrasive for a hang over a living branch.

Dyneema / UHMWPE guyline

Cord made from ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene is the lightweight choice: thinner and lighter than paracord for the same job, with almost no stretch and no water uptake. A ridgeline in 2 mm Dyneema stays where you tensioned it. The price is a very slippery surface – a taut-line hitch simply slides, and many people use small line tensioners or knots with extra turns instead – and a low melting point, so it must stay well away from fire and from hot friction.

Accessory cord

Accessory cord from the climbing shop is kernmantle cord like paracord, but with a tight sheath, little stretch and – the important difference – a tested minimum breaking strength under the European standard EN 564: 3.2 kN for 4 mm and 5.0 kN for 5 mm, for example. That makes it the honest choice for heavy camp loads such as a large food hang. It is still static cord for holding and hauling gear, not a rope for catching falls.

Jute, sisal and natural cordage

Natural-fibre twine grips better than any synthetic and may be left on a temporary structure to rot. Jute has a second life: untwist a piece, fluff the fibres into a nest and it takes a spark from a ferro rod – see tinder for how to prepare it. And if you want to make cord yourself from nettle or lime bast, our guide to natural cordage shows the reverse-wrap technique; its section on paracord vs natural cordage weighs up the two.

550 paracord uses: which cord for which job?

The classic 550 paracord uses in camp are ridgelines, guylines, food hangs, lashings, replacement laces and repairs. For each of them there is a best cord and an acceptable one. The table assumes ordinary camp loads; lengths for the tarp lines follow the tarp planner.

Emergency uses – and their limits

Much of paracord's reputation rests on "101 survival uses". Some are real: tying a splint, improvising a sling together with a triangular bandage, rigging an emergency shelter from a tarp or poncho, replacing a broken pack strap, lashing a stretcher frame from poles, or marking a route with short bright pieces you collect again. Our first overnight guide shows how little of this you need when a trip is planned well.

Others deserve honesty. Thin cord is not a tourniquet: it cuts into tissue instead of compressing it, and belongs nowhere near a bleeding limb – a pressure bandage from the first aid kit does that job. An inner strand will work as fishing line in a pinch, but it is thick and visible in the water, and fishing needs a licence or permit in most countries. Snares from inner strands are illegal in many places and no way to feed yourself on a weekend trip. And every use that involves hanging, lowering or pulling a person is out.

How much paracord to carry – and how to pre-cut it

A single 30 m bundle that you cut "as needed" ends up as a bag of odd lengths. A pre-cut kit is faster to pitch, lighter and easier to check. The lengths below are the same assumptions the tarp pitch & cordage planner uses, so the numbers on your screen match the hanks in your pack.

• Ridgeline: distance between the trees plus 1.5 m at each end for wraps and knots. For trees 5 m apart that is 8 m; a 10 m line covers trees up to 7 m apart.
• Guylines: 2 m each – six for an A-frame or storm pitch (12 m), four for a lean-to (8 m).
• Reserve: the planner adds 10 %. Ridgeline plus six guylines is 20 m, so plan 22 m for the shelter.
• Prusik loops: two, each from about 60 cm of thinner cord, to slide the tarp along the ridgeline.
• Utility hank: one uncut length of about 10 m for a drying line, a pot hanger, lashings and whatever breaks.

Together that is roughly 30 m. In Type III paracord at 6–7 g per metre it weighs about 200 g and packs to the size of a fist. In bear country, add a separate 15 m hang line.

The Kit Builder adds cordage to your packing list automatically, and the bushcraft kit list shows where it sits among the other essentials. Which tie-outs those lines attach to is covered in choosing a tarp.

How to cut paracord and seal the ends

An unsealed paracord end frays within minutes: the sheath unravels, the inner strands slide out, and the cord no longer passes through a tie-out or holds a knot. Sealing takes ten seconds per end. Do it at home, at a table, with a window open – melting nylon gives off unpleasant fumes, and a lighter has no place in a dry forest during fire-danger periods.

Whipping: the no-flame alternative

A whipping is a tight binding of thin thread around the end of a cord. It needs no flame, works on natural-fibre rope that cannot be melted, never leaves a sharp bead, and is the tidy solution where open flames are banned. Use waxed thread, dental floss or a single inner strand of paracord; about 30 cm is plenty for a 4 mm cord. The simplest version is the common whipping:

Gutting paracord: using the inner strands and the empty sheath

"Gutting" means removing the core. You end up with two materials from one cord: fine, strong thread and a flat, supple tube. It is the quickest way to get sewing thread in camp, and the reason a few metres of real paracord are worth carrying even if your tarp lines are something else.

What the inner strands are good for

• Sewing and repairs: a single strand closes a torn pack seam or re-attaches a tarp tie-out; one yarn of a strand passes through a normal needle for clothing.
• Whipping and seizing: the thread for the whipping above, or for binding a split tool handle.
• Light lashings and ties: bundling kindling, tying a bandage in place, fixing a spoon blank to dry.
• Emergency fishing line: possible, with the legal caveat above. A strand is often quoted at around 15 kg nominal in mil-spec style cord; in commercial cord nobody has tested it.

What the empty sheath is good for

The gutted sheath is roughly half the weight, lies flat and grips itself well. It makes excellent bootlaces, zip pulls, knife and whistle lanyards, glasses retainers and tie-out loops. Its strength is clearly lower than that of the whole cord – assume well under half – so it is for light duties only. Do not pull the core out of cord that still has to carry a tarp.

How to store paracord without tangles

Cord stuffed loose into a pocket comes out as a knot. Three storage methods solve this; which one fits depends on the length and on how fast the cord has to be ready.

Daisy chain for long lines

The daisy chain, or chain sinnet, shortens a long line to about a third of its length and cannot tangle. Make a slip loop near one end, reach through it, pull a new loop of the standing cord through, and repeat to the end; lock the chain by passing the end itself through the last loop. To release, take the end back out and pull – the whole chain runs open in seconds. It suits a 15 m hang line or a ridgeline, but it adds bulk and holds water, so let chained cord dry before storing it.

Winder card or spool for thin cord

Bank line, micro cord and inner strands are too thin to hank well. Wind them on a flat card with a notch at each end – a piece of thin wood, a cut-up plastic lid or a carved stick. A card stops the cord taking a set from tight wraps round the fingers and lets you cut off exactly what you need.

Whatever the method: store cord dry, out of the sun and away from fuel, insect repellent and battery acid. Solvents and acids damage nylon without leaving a visible mark.

Which knots hold in slippery paracord?

New paracord is smooth and springy, and that affects knots. Friction hitches creep, short tails work loose, and a knot that was fine in old jute may roll in fresh nylon. Three habits fix most of it: add a turn to any knot that holds by friction, leave tails of at least five to ten cord diameters, and dress and set every knot – arrange the parts neatly, then pull each one snug. The full instructions are in essential bushcraft knots; the Knot Finder picks a knot for a given job.

Prusik loops and a pre-tied bowline are worth making at home, as described in pre-rigging a ridgeline. With the kit above, pitching then comes down to one wrap around the first tree, a trucker's hitch on the second and six taut-line hitches – the sequence the tarp planner lists for each pitch.

Care, when to retire a cord, and leaving nothing behind

Paracord needs little care, but it is not immortal. Dirt works into the sheath and grinds the fibres from inside, sunlight slowly embrittles nylon, and one careless evening by the fire can ruin a line. A two-minute check after each trip keeps surprises away.

• Dry it loosely before storing. Nylon does not rot, but damp hanks grow mildew, smell and stay heavy.
• Wash it when it is gritty: lukewarm water, a little mild soap, rinse, air-dry in the shade. No bleach, no tumble dryer, no radiator.
• Untie knots before storage. A knot left in for months sets a permanent kink and hides wear.
• Inspect it by running every metre slowly through your fingers under good light.

"Retire" does not have to mean the bin. A ridgeline with one bad spot becomes two guylines; worn guylines become lashing cord and tie-out loops; the last short ends become zip pulls. Only cord that has been near chemicals, or is damaged throughout, goes in the household waste.

Paracord bracelets and "survival" gadgets: how much cord is really in them?

Paracord bracelets are sold as emergency cord on your wrist. They are a pleasant craft project and a way to always have some cord with you. It helps to know how much: the usual cobra weave takes up about 30 cm of cord for every 2.5 cm of bracelet, so a bracelet for an average wrist holds roughly 2 to 3 metres. Wider "king cobra" weaves hold about twice that. A belt or a rifle-sling-style strap can hold considerably more.

In other words: a bracelet replaces one guyline or a pair of bootlaces, not a shelter kit. Three more points belong to an honest assessment:

• Unpicking takes time. A tightly woven bracelet takes several minutes to undo with cold fingers, and the cord comes out kinked. Weaves advertised as "quick deploy" open faster but are bulkier.
• Built-in tools are small. Buckles with a whistle, a tiny ferro rod, a compass bead or a blade are harder to use than the real thing. A proper whistle – see distress signals – and a full-size ferro rod weigh little and work when it matters. Blades in buckles can also fall under knife carry rules in some countries – see knife law.
• Worn cord ages. Sweat, sunscreen, sun and constant flexing wear a bracelet. Do not count on cord that has spent two summers on your wrist for anything demanding.

The same goes for "survival paracord" with extra strands in the core – a waxed tinder thread, a monofilament fishing line, a thin wire. These can be useful backups, but test them at home: light the tinder strand with your own fire steel before you trust it, and remember that the extra strands replace some of the load-bearing ones. If you like carrying cord on you, a hank in a jacket pocket or a spare pair of paracord bootlaces gives you more usable metres with less fuss.

For the bigger picture of what belongs in a pack – and what is marketing – see bushcraft for beginners.