Rain Gear: Jackets, Ponchos & Gaiters for Hiking and Bushcraft

Waterproof vs water-resistant: what the labels mean

Water-resistant (or "water-repellent") clothing sheds a shower for a while: drops roll off a tightly woven fabric or a chemical finish, but under steady rain, pressure from pack straps or kneeling on wet ground, water eventually soaks through. Soft shells, wind smocks, poly-cotton and many "outdoor" jackets fall into this group. Waterproof clothing has a continuous barrier – a membrane or a coating – plus taped or sealed seams, so water cannot pass even after hours of rain.

Both have their place. A water-resistant smock breathes far better and is ideal for drizzle, wind and work by the fire. A waterproof shell is the one you need when it rains all day, when it is cold and windy, or when getting wet would be dangerous. In cool, wet weather, wet clothing drains body heat fast – water conducts heat around 25 times faster than air – which is why a real waterproof jacket goes on every trip in our Kit Builder.

Hydrostatic head: how waterproof is waterproof?

Waterproofness is usually given as hydrostatic head in millimetres: the height of a water column a fabric resists before water is pressed through. The number is useful as a concept, but not as a precise ranking, because labs and test methods differ and seams, zips and wear matter more in the field.

In practice, check three things before the number: taped seams (look inside for tape strips along every seam), covered or water-resistant zips and a hood that seals around the face. A jacket with a modest rating and good construction keeps you drier than a high number with a poor hood.

How waterproof breathable jackets work: membranes and coatings

A waterproof breathable jacket must do two contradictory jobs: keep liquid rain out and let water vapour from your sweat escape. There are two basic ways of doing this, and many variations of each.

• Membranes: a very thin film laminated to the back of the outer fabric. Microporous membranes have pores far too small for a water drop but large enough for vapour molecules; other membranes are solid and move vapour through the material itself by diffusion. Membranes are usually the most durable and breathable option.
• Coatings: a waterproof layer brushed or sprayed onto the inside of the fabric. Coated jackets are often cheaper and lighter, but usually breathe less and can wear off at friction points such as shoulders and hips.

The barrier is protected inside by a liner: a third fabric layer (often called "3-layer"), a printed or thin protective layer ("2.5-layer") or a loose mesh hanging inside ("2-layer"). Three-layer shells are the most robust for packs and brush; light 2.5-layer jackets pack small but wear faster.

The water-repellent finish (DWR)

The outer fabric carries a durable water-repellent finish (DWR) that makes rain bead up and roll off. It is not what keeps you dry – the membrane does that – but it is what keeps the jacket breathable. When the DWR wears off, the outer fabric soaks up water ("wets out"), turns darker and heavier, and a film of water now sits over the membrane. Vapour can hardly get through, condensation builds inside, and the jacket feels cold and clammy although it is not leaking. That is why care and reproofing matter so much (see below).

Breathability ratings as a concept

Breathability is stated in two common ways. MVTR (moisture vapour transmission rate) gives how many grams of vapour pass through a square metre in 24 hours – higher is better. RET (resistance to evaporative heat transfer) works the other way round – lower is better; as a commonly quoted rough guide, values under about 6 are described as very breathable and values above about 20 as poorly breathable. Different test methods give very different numbers, so compare figures only within one maker's range, never across brands.

The honest summary: no fabric breathes fast enough for hard work. Climbing a hill with a pack, you can produce far more sweat than any membrane can move. Breathability helps at an easy pace and at rest; for everything else you need ventilation.

Why you still get wet inside a rain jacket

Most "leaking" jackets are not leaking. The water on the inside comes from three sources, and only one of them is rain:

• Sweat: you produce more vapour than the fabric can pass, and it soaks your base layer.
• Condensation: warm, moist air meets the cold inner surface of the shell and turns into droplets – like breath on a cold window. The colder and wetter it is outside, the more it condenses, and a wetted-out face fabric makes it worse.
• Real leaks: water running in at the hood, cuffs and hem, wicking up sleeves, through worn seam tape, a failed coating or an open pocket.

Venting: the skill that keeps you dry

Venting means letting steam out before it condenses. Open the pit zips and the front zip partway, loosen the cuffs, push the hood back when the rain eases, and take the mid layer off before a climb rather than at the top. Slowing down a little so you do not overheat is the single most effective trick. Many experienced walkers keep a hat under the hood and open the jacket wide in mild rain – a damp base layer that stays warm is better than a soaked one.

Best rain gear for hiking: jacket features that matter

In a storm, details decide whether you are comfortable. Try a jacket on over a fleece, with your pack if you can, and move.

• Hood: the most important feature. It should turn with your head (adjust the volume at the back), close around the face with a cord, and have a stiff peak that keeps rain off your face and glasses. A hood that blocks your side vision is dangerous on rough ground.
• Pit zips: long underarm zips for venting. Worth their small weight for anyone who walks uphill.
• Length: a hem that covers your seat keeps water off the top of your trousers when you sit on a log or kneel. Very short "alpine" cuts suit climbing harnesses, not bushcraft.
• Sleeves and cuffs: long enough not to ride up when you reach forward, with adjustable cuffs that fit over gloves.
• Front zip and pockets: a storm flap or water-resistant zip, and chest pockets above a hip belt so they stay reachable with a pack on.
• Fabric weight: heavier face fabrics resist thorns and pack abrasion better. The Kit Builder counts a typical rain jacket at 350 g.

Rain jacket vs poncho: which is better?

The rain jacket vs poncho question has no single answer – it depends on terrain, wind and what else you carry. A jacket fits close, stays put in wind and moves through brush. A poncho is a large waterproof sheet with a hood: it ventilates from below, covers you and your pack, and can become a shelter or groundsheet.

A rule of thumb: on forest tracks in warm, steady rain a poncho is very comfortable; on exposed ridges, in cold wind or in thick scrub, a jacket is safer. Many bushcrafters carry a jacket for moving and a tarp for camp. Others carry a poncho as their backup shelter – the Kit Builder lists an emergency poncho or small backup tarp at about 300 g for trips where you plan a natural shelter.

Umbrellas: underrated on tracks

On wide forest roads in calm rain, a trekking umbrella is surprisingly good: it keeps your head and upper body dry while you leave the jacket open for maximum ventilation, and it is pleasant at a sit spot or while reading the map. It is useless in strong wind and dense undergrowth, takes a hand away from poles, and you should never hold one up in a thunderstorm – see what to do in a thunderstorm. Treat it as an extra, not a replacement for a shell.

Using a poncho as a shelter or groundsheet

Shelter-style ponchos have reinforced grommets or tie-outs at the corners and sides and a hood that can be closed. Typical sizes are often around 1.4 × 2.2 m – small for a tarp, so pitch low and choose a sheltered spot. The basic pitches are the same as for any tarp; our tarp shelter guide explains ridgelines and knots, and bivouacking shows how a minimal shelter and a bivvy bag work together.

Leave the ends open so condensation can escape, and pack a wet poncho outside the main compartment. The tarp pitch planner helps with cord lengths for small sheets too.

Rain trousers and chaps: keeping your legs warm

Wet thighs cool you much more than most people expect, especially in wind. In summer showers you can often accept damp legs if your trousers dry fast. In autumn, winter and on long rainy days, rain trousers are worth their weight.

• Full rain trousers: the most complete protection. Look for long side zips (ideally to the hip) so you can pull them on over boots, an elastic or adjustable waist, and reinforced inner ankles where crampons or boot hooks rub.
• Rain chaps: two separate leg tubes tied to a belt. They ventilate far better than trousers and work well under a poncho or long jacket, but leave the seat and crotch exposed.

Put rain trousers on early – it is much easier on dry ground than sitting in mud. Wear them over the gaiters in rain, so water runs down the outside rather than into the gaiter top; in deep snow it is often the other way round.

Hiking gaiters: low, high, brush, snow and ticks

Hiking gaiters close the gap between trousers and boots. They keep water running down your legs, wet grass, mud, needles, stones and snow out of the boot top, protect trousers from thorns and are a simple barrier against ticks. They extend the range of any boot – our guide to waterproof versus breathable boots explains why water entering over the top is the main reason for wet feet.

Gaiters against ticks

Ticks wait on low vegetation and climb upwards from your boots. Light-coloured gaiters over the trousers close the gap and make ticks easy to spot and brush off. They do not replace a body check in the evening – see protection against ticks and mosquitoes for repellents, treated clothing and correct tick removal.

Waxed cotton and canvas: rain gear for the bushcraft fire

Before synthetic shells, outdoor people stayed dry in waxed cotton, oilskin and tightly woven canvas. They are still popular in bushcraft for one reason: the fire. A spark landing on a membrane jacket melts a hole – and molten synthetic fabric on skin causes serious burns. Waxed cotton and canvas char at worst and do not drip.

A practical approach: a waxed cotton, wool or poly-cotton smock in camp and at the fire, the light synthetic shell for long wet walks.

What to wear under rain gear

Rain gear only works as part of the layering system. Underneath the shell, every layer should keep some warmth when damp – wool or synthetics, never cotton in cool weather.

Wear less under a shell than you think: the jacket itself adds a lot of warmth by stopping wind. A common pattern is base layer plus shell while walking, then an insulated jacket on top of or under the shell at every stop. In cold, wet and windy weather, check the feels-like temperature with the wind chill calculator and watch each other for early signs of hypothermia: shivering, clumsiness, mumbling. Wet and windy at a few degrees above freezing is the classic hypothermia weather.

In warm summer rain, the opposite applies – a shell can make you hotter and wetter than the rain itself. A light, quick-drying shirt, an umbrella or an open poncho may be the better choice; see hot weather for heat illness signs.

Washing and reproofing rain gear

Dirt, sweat, sun cream and smoke clog the outer fabric and break down the DWR. Regular washing does not harm a waterproof jacket – it usually restores performance. Always follow the care label: temperatures, detergents and whether heat is allowed vary between fabrics.

Waxed cotton is different: never machine-wash it. Brush off dirt when dry, sponge with cold water and re-wax the fabric when it looks pale and dry, usually by warming the wax gently and rubbing it in, then letting it cure. Store all rain gear clean, dry and loosely hung, not compressed in a stuff sack, and keep it out of hot car boots – heat and damp storage damage coatings and seam tape.

Repairs and rain gear on a budget

Small damage grows quickly in rain gear: a thorn hole lets water in and frays, a peeling seam tape becomes a running leak. In the field, a round-cornered patch of repair tape on the outside (and ideally inside) seals a small tear for the rest of the trip; a broken zip slider can often be squeezed back into shape with pliers. Our field repair kit guide shows the materials and techniques. At home, peeling seams can be re-sealed with seam sealer, and larger tears are worth a professional repair before you replace a jacket.

Good rain gear without spending much

Rain protection is one of the places where money matters most – wet and cold is the most dangerous combination – but you can still save sensibly. Our guide to bushcraft gear on a budget puts a real rain jacket near the top of the priority list. Useful savings:

• A simple, robust shell with taped seams, a good hood and pit zips beats a light, expensive jacket with many features you do not need.
• Military surplus ponchos are tough and double as shelter, though usually heavy. Check the coating and grommets before relying on one.
• Second-hand waxed cotton can be re-waxed and used for decades around camp.
• Test old gear under a garden hose or shower before a trip – coatings fail with age, sometimes all at once.
• A pack liner (a strong bin bag works) is cheaper and more reliable than a pack cover alone – see backpacks and waterproof packing with dry bags.

Rain gear in camp: keeping the rest dry

At camp, rain gear becomes part of the routine of keeping your dry set dry. Put the shell back on for every trip out from under the tarp, hang wet jackets at the edge of the shelter where they drip outside the sleeping area, and never take wet rain gear into your sleeping bag. Watch the sky and put rain gear on before the first drops – reading weather signs helps with the timing.

The complete wet-weather camp – site choice, pitching, drips, condensation and cooking – is covered in camping in the rain, including why it drips inside. For lighting a fire in wet weather, see fire in the rain. If you are just starting out, our bushcraft for beginners guide shows which gear matters first, and the bushcraft kit list puts your rain gear in context.