Gear

Bushcraft Backpacks: Volume, Frame Types, Fit & How to Pack

18 min read · Updated Sep 24, 2026

A good bushcraft backpack holds your whole kit with a little room to spare, puts the weight on your hips rather than your shoulders and survives brambles, sparks and rain. For most overnight trips that means a framed pack of 45–55 litres with a padded hip belt and adjustable back length; winter trips need 65–70 litres.

This guide shows how many litres you need for each trip, how frame types differ, how to fit and adjust a pack step by step and how to pack it so it carries well. The volumes match the suggestions of our Kit Builder; what goes inside is covered in the bushcraft kit list. Part of our bushcraft gear guides.

Step by step

1
Pick the volume
Use 30 litres plus 8 litres per day, plus 15 litres for winter and 5 litres if you carry a tent.
2
Measure your torso
Measure from the bony bump at the base of your neck down to the top of your hip bones, then choose the matching back length.
3
Load it to test
Try packs on in the shop or at home with 10–12 kg inside – an empty pack always feels comfortable.
4
Adjust in order
Hip belt first, then shoulder straps, load lifters and sternum strap. Re-check after the first kilometres.
5
Waterproof the inside
Use a pack liner or dry bags – a rain cover alone lets water in through the back panel.

What makes a good bushcraft backpack?

Bushcraft packs have a slightly different job from pure hiking packs. You carry steel tools, a cook pot that goes into the fire, sometimes a heavy canvas tarp, and you walk off-trail through brush. At camp the pack becomes your cupboard, seat back and windbreak. That leads to a few priorities:

A load-bearing hip belt – most of the weight should rest on your pelvis, not your shoulders.
Tough fabric that resists thorns and abrasion; spark resistance is a bonus if you sit close to the fire.
Simple access: a big top opening or a front zip so you reach the tarp first in rain.
Safe attachment points for a saw, axe or sit mat – with sheaths, never loose blades.
Enough volume without being oversized: every extra litre invites extra weight.

Whether it looks "bushcraft" matters much less than whether it fits you. A well-fitting trekking pack carries a bushcraft kit perfectly well; an ill-fitting canvas classic will hurt after an hour.

What size backpack do I need? Litres by trip length

The Kit Builder suggests pack volume with a simple rule of thumb: 30 litres + 8 litres per day, plus 15 litres in winter (bulkier sleeping bag and clothing) and 5 litres if you carry a tent, rounded up to the next 5 litres. That gives realistic sizes for a typical mid-range kit – with ultralight gear you can go smaller, with a canvas tarp or synthetic winter bag you need more.

Backpack volume by trip (typical mid-range kit)
Trip	Summer / autumn, tarp	With tent	Winter, tarp
Day trip (no overnight gear)	20–30 L	–	30–40 L
1 night	40 L	45 L	55 L
2 days	50 L	55 L	65 L
3 days	55 L	60 L	70 L
4–5 days	60–70 L	65–75 L	75–85 L

Rows for 1–3 days follow the Kit Builder formula; day trip and 4–5 days are practical ranges.

Why not simply buy the biggest pack? Because an 80-litre pack tempts you to fill it, weighs more when empty (often 2.5 kg or more) and carries worse when half-empty, as the load slumps. If you are between two sizes, choose the smaller one and strap a foam pad or tarp outside in a waterproof bag. The exception is winter: sleeping bag and parka take a lot of space, and packing them tightly compresses insulation you rely on.

Packed volume of the big items

The sleeping bag is usually the bulkiest single item: a 0 °C synthetic bag can fill 10–15 litres, a down bag of the same rating half of that. A poly-cotton tarp takes far more room than a silicone-coated one. If your kit does not fit, the sleep system and shelter – see sleeping gear and choosing a tarp – are where litres are won.

Frame types: frameless, internal frame or external frame?

The frame transfers weight from the pack bag to the hip belt. The heavier your load, the more important a stiff frame becomes.

Backpack frame types compared
Frame type	Comfortable load	Pros	Cons	Typical use
Frameless / soft back	up to ≈ 8 kg	Light, simple, packs flat	Weight hangs on shoulders; needs careful packing	Day trips, ultralight overnights
Internal frame (stays or frame sheet)	10–20 kg	Hugs the body, stable off-trail, adjustable back length	Sweaty back unless ventilated	The standard for bushcraft overnights
Trampoline / mesh back	8–15 kg	Good ventilation	Load sits further from the back; less stable	Summer walking
External frame / pack frame	15–30 kg	Carries heavy and awkward loads, good airflow, bags can be swapped	Bulky, catches on branches, less stable on rough ground	Base camps, firewood and heavy canvas kits
Rucksack with simple frame and waist belt (classic canvas style)	8–15 kg	Robust, repairable, traditional look	Often limited adjustment, heavier	Traditional bushcraft, short approaches

Load ranges are rough guides for a comfortable carry and depend on fit and fitness.

For most bushcrafters, an internal-frame pack with adjustable back length is the best compromise: it handles a 10–14 kg overnight kit, stays stable when you step over logs and adjusts to your body. External pack frames are experiencing a revival among bushcrafters who carry heavy base-camp kits over short distances; they excel at strapping on awkward loads but are less agile in dense forest.

How to fit and adjust a backpack

A pack that fits well can carry 12 kg more comfortably than a badly fitting one carries 8 kg. The key measurement is your torso length: the distance from the prominent vertebra at the base of your neck (C7) down to an imaginary line between the tops of your hip bones (iliac crest). Ask someone to measure it with a soft tape measure while you stand upright. Choose a pack size or adjustable back system that covers this length – your height alone is not a reliable guide.

Find C7 – Tilt your head forward. The bump that sticks out most at the base of the neck is the seventh cervical vertebra (C7) – the top end of your torso length.

Find the hip crest – Put your hands on your hips and slide them down until you feel the top of the hip bones, thumbs pointing backwards. An imaginary line between the thumbs is the bottom end.

Load and loosen – Pack 10–12 kg inside and loosen every strap before you put the pack on. If the straps are still tight from last time, the pack sits wherever they hold it – not where your body needs it.

Hip belt – Shrug the pack slightly up, place the padded belt centred on your hip bones and pull both ends forward firmly. Check: the padding wraps the bony top of the pelvis and the buckle sits in front, not low on the belly.

On climbs, tighten the load lifters slightly to keep the pack close; on descents loosen them a little and tighten the hip belt. When you take a break, open the hip belt and sternum strap first so the pack does not drag on your shoulders as you take it off.

What a good fit looks like

Stand side-on to a mirror or ask someone to take a photo from the side. With a well-fitted pack you should see the hip belt padding centred over the top of the pelvis, the shoulder straps lying on the shoulders without a gap, the load lifters rising towards the pack at roughly 45° and the pack standing upright close to your back rather than leaning away. You should be able to slide two fingers under the shoulder straps at the top of the shoulders – the straps guide the load, the hips carry it.

Two hikers side by side: correct fit with the hip belt on the hips versus a low belt and a pack leaning away from the back — Left: the belt sits on the hip bones and the pack hugs the back. Right: belt too low and pack leaning away – the load pulls you backwards and hangs on the shoulders.

Pack fit troubleshooting by symptom
Symptom	Likely cause	What to try
Pain on top of the shoulders	Hip belt too loose or too low, shoulders carry the load	Re-seat the belt on the hip bones, tighten it, then ease the shoulder straps slightly
Pressure on the hip bones	Belt sits too high or padding too thin	Lower the belt a little, check the belt size, pad the spot with a folded buff
Pack pulls you backwards	Heavy items low or far from the back, loose load lifters	Repack heavy items close to the spine; tighten load lifters and compression straps
Gap between strap and shoulder	Back length too long for you	Shorten the adjustable back or try the next smaller size
Straps press into the neck	Back length too short	Lengthen the back system and re-check your torso measurement
Tingling or numb hands	Shoulder straps pressing on nerves and vessels	Loosen shoulder and sternum straps, shift weight to the hips, check the fit
Pack sways from side to side	Loose compression and stabiliser straps, half-empty pack	Compress the load, fill gaps with soft items, tighten the stabilisers

Women's fits, short torsos and young people

Many manufacturers offer packs with an adapted fit, often labelled as women's or short-length models. Typical features are a shorter back length, shoulder straps that sit closer together and curve in an S-shape so they do not press on the chest, and a conically cut hip belt that fits a wider pelvis. These packs are not only for women: people of any gender with a short torso or narrow shoulders often find the better fit there. What counts is what fits your body.

For teenagers, packs with a widely adjustable back system that can grow with them make sense, and the load should stay well below adult levels – adults carry the heavy items such as pot, water and tarp. When trying packs in a shop, the same rules apply to everyone: have at least 10 kg put inside, walk around for ten minutes, climb stairs and pay attention to pressure points at the hips, shoulders and lower back. A pack that already pinches in the shop will not improve in the forest.

How to pack a backpack: heavy close to your back

How you pack changes how a pack carries as much as the pack itself. The rule: heavy, dense items close to your spine at shoulder-blade height, light and bulky items at the bottom, things you need during the day on top or in outside pockets. A load that sits far from your back or low in the pack pulls you backwards and makes you lean forward.

Liner first – Open a waterproof pack liner inside the main compartment before anything else goes in. Everything below the tarp ends up inside it.

Sleeping bag at the bottom – Stuff the sleeping bag (in its own waterproof sack) and sleeping clothes into the bottom. They are light and bulky, form a soft base and are not needed until camp.

Cross-section of a backpack with coloured packing zones next to the wearer's back — Side cross-section of a packed backpack: sleeping bag at the bottom, heavy items against the back, clothing as padding, tarp and rain gear on top, essentials in the lid.

Fill gaps with soft items so nothing shifts. Keep water bottles reachable in side pockets – about 1 litre when water is plentiful, around 3 litres when sources are scarce, as in the Kit Builder; the water calculator gives your personal need. Keep fuel canisters and food separate from the sleeping bag, and anything smelly in a sealed bag. On rough ground or when scrambling, pack a little lower and tighter for better balance.

Three quick checks after packing

Stand test: set the closed pack on the ground. If it falls forwards or sideways, heavy items sit too far out or to one side – move them towards the back panel and the centre.
Lift test: lift the pack by the haul loop. It should hang straight and feel compact; a pack that tips backwards has too much weight at the bottom or in the front pocket.
Twist test: put it on and twist your upper body. Anything that clunks or shifts needs a soft item wedged beside it.

A heavy pack slows you down. The hiking time calculator accounts for pack weight, terrain and breaks, so you can estimate when you will reach camp – and whether you will get there before dark.

Canvas vs synthetic: which backpack material?

Traditional bushcraft packs are made from waxed cotton canvas with leather straps; modern packs from high-tenacity nylon or polyester fabrics with PU or laminate coatings. Both have their place.

Canvas vs synthetic packs

Waxed canvas

Spark-resistant – a stray ember rarely burns straight through
Very abrasion-resistant, quiet in the forest
Repairable with needle, thread and wax
Heavy: often 2–3 kg for 45–50 L
Absorbs water unless re-waxed; slow to dry

Synthetic (nylon / polyester)

Light: 1.2–2 kg for 50 L
Water-resistant coatings, dries quickly
Modern frames and adjustable backs
Melts from sparks and embers
Can be noisy; coatings age over years

For long approaches, synthetic packs win on weight and carrying comfort. For base camps with a lot of time around the fire, or if you love traditional gear, canvas is robust and pleasant – just re-wax it regularly and keep your sleeping bag in a dry bag. Hybrid designs with canvas outer fabric and modern harnesses combine some of the advantages.

Rain covers, pack liners and dry bags

Almost no backpack is fully waterproof: seams, zips and the back panel let water in, and a canvas pack soaks up rain. There are three ways to keep your kit dry:

Rain cover: an elasticated cover over the outside. It keeps the pack fabric from soaking up water and stays useful on long rainy days, but water runs down your back and enters through the back panel, and it can blow off in wind.
Pack liner: a large waterproof bag inside the main compartment. Cheap, light and reliable – the most important of the three.
Dry bags: separate waterproof stuff sacks, colour-coded by content. They organise the kit and protect the sleeping bag and spare clothes even if the liner fails.

Two backpack cross-sections in the rain: rain cover only with water entering at the back versus a dry liner inside — A rain cover alone lets water run down your back and in through the back panel. A liner inside keeps the kit dry even when the pack fabric is soaked.

The best combination for bushcraft: a liner or dry bag for the sleeping bag and clothes, the tarp on top so you can pitch it first, and optionally a rain cover. Keep tinder in a sealed tin – wet tinder makes fire in wet weather much harder.

Closing a roll-top liner or dry bag: press out excess air, fold the top over at least three times in tight, flat turns and then clip or tuck it. Fewer turns or a loose roll let water creep in. Keep the rolled end facing up or towards the inside of the pack, never down into a puddle, and check liners for pinholes each season by holding them against a bright light.

Carrying knife, axe and saw safely

Many bushcraft packs have loops or MOLLE webbing for tools. Use them with care: an axe or saw strapped outside can snag on branches, injure you or others in a fall and looks threatening in towns. Carry blades in a sheath or blade cover, with the edge pointing away from your body and ideally inside the pack. Our guides to axes and hatchets, folding saws and bushcraft knives cover safe handling.

Backpack with a sheathed axe compared with a backpack with an unsheathed axe and saw strapped on the outside — Safe: blades sheathed and carried inside the pack. Unsafe: bare axe and saw blades strapped outside, where they snag, cut and alarm other people.

How heavy should a loaded bushcraft pack be?

An empty pack weighs 1.2–2.5 kg; canvas designs can weigh more. Add the kit: according to the Kit Builder, a two-day tarp trip has a base weight of around 5.4 kg in summer, 7.5 kg in autumn and 8.5 kg in winter (carried clothing included), plus about 2.4–2.8 kg of food and water. That gives a total of roughly 9–13 kg.

A common rough guide is to keep the total load at or below about 20–25 % of your body weight for multi-day walking. It is not a rule – fitness, terrain and distance matter – but if you are well above it, look at the heavy items first: sleep system, shelter and the pack itself. A lighter pack only makes sense if it still carries your load comfortably; an ultralight frameless pack with 13 kg inside will hurt.

Backpack buying checklist

Volume matches your usual trips (see the table above)
Back length fits your measured torso, or is adjustable
Padded, load-bearing hip belt that sits on your hip bones
Load lifters and sternum strap
Tough fabric; canvas if you sit close to fires
Top or front access to reach the tarp quickly
Side pockets you can reach for water bottles
Room for a liner or dry bags inside

Caring for your backpack

Empty the pack completely after each trip, shake out needles and crumbs and let it dry open – never store it damp. Brush off dried mud; wash synthetic packs by hand with lukewarm water and a mild soap if needed, never in the washing machine. Re-wax canvas when water stops beading off, working the wax in with gentle heat. Check buckles, seams and strap anchors before longer trips: a canvas needle and strong thread from the bushcraft basics kit will fix most field damage, and a spare buckle weighs only a few grams.

Bushcraft backpacks at a glance
Trip	Volume	Frame	Total load (approx.)
Day trip	20–30 L	Frameless or light frame	3–6 kg
1 night, summer/autumn	40 L	Internal frame	8–11 kg
2 days, summer/autumn	50 L	Internal frame	9–12 kg
2 days, winter	65 L	Internal frame, stiff	12–14 kg
Base camp, heavy kit	60–80 L	Internal or external frame	15 kg +

Common mistakes

Choosing a pack by height or looks instead of measured torso length and fit.
Buying the biggest pack available – and then filling it.
Letting the shoulders carry the load because the hip belt is loose or sits too low.
Packing heavy items at the bottom or far from the back.
Relying on a rain cover alone without a liner or dry bags.
Strapping unsheathed axes, saws or knives to the outside of the pack.

What you need

Backpack 45–55 L (65–70 L for winter)
Waterproof pack liner
2–4 dry bags in different colours
Rain cover (optional)
Sheaths or blade covers for knife, saw and axe
Spare buckle and repair thread

Calculators for this topic

Bushcraft Kit BuilderTrip length, season and shelter in — complete weighted packing list out. Hiking Time CalculatorNaismith’s rule with pack weight, terrain and breaks — when you will actually arrive.

FAQ

What size backpack do I need for bushcraft?

For an overnight trip in summer or autumn, around 40–50 litres is enough; for two to three days 50–55 litres, and in winter 65–70 litres. A useful rule is 30 litres plus 8 litres per day, plus 15 litres in winter and 5 litres with a tent. The Kit Builder suggests a volume for your exact trip.

Is a canvas backpack good for bushcraft?

Yes, if you value spark resistance, durability and repairability and do not mind the weight. Waxed canvas packs often weigh 2–3 kg and absorb water unless re-waxed, so pack your sleeping bag in a dry bag. For long walking distances, a modern synthetic pack with a good frame is lighter and more comfortable.

How do I know if a backpack fits?

Measure your torso length from the base of your neck to the top of your hip bones and choose the matching back size. With 10–12 kg inside, the hip belt should sit on your hip bones and carry most of the load, the shoulder straps should wrap without gaps and the load lifters should run at roughly 45°.

How should I pack a bushcraft backpack?

Put the sleeping bag at the bottom, the heaviest items (food, pot, water, saw) in the middle close to your back, clothing around them and the tarp and rain jacket on top. Small essentials go in the lid and hip-belt pockets. Use a liner or dry bags so rain cannot reach the sleeping bag.

Do I need a rain cover for my backpack?

A rain cover helps, but it is not enough on its own: water runs down your back and enters through the back panel. The most reliable protection is a waterproof liner or dry bags inside the pack. A rain cover is a useful extra on long rainy days, especially for canvas packs that would otherwise soak up water.

How heavy should my pack be?

For a two-day bushcraft trip expect roughly 9–13 kg in total, including a 1.2–2.5 kg pack, base kit, food and water. As a rough guide, try to stay at or below about 20–25 % of your body weight on longer walks. Cut weight from sleep system, shelter and pack before cutting safety items – see the kit list.

Step by step

Pick the volume

Measure your torso

Load it to test

Adjust in order

Waterproof the inside