FeatherSticks · Tools
Knife Care and Axe Care: Rust, Oil, Handles and Storage
Five minutes of care after a trip keeps a knife and an axe going for decades.
Quick facts
- Time
- 5 min after a trip, 30 min twice a year
- Difficulty
- Easy – routine matters more than skill
- Best for
- Knives, axes, saws, sheaths and wooden handles
- You need
- Cloth, oil, linseed oil, fine abrasive
What you need
- Cotton cloths: one dry, one lightly oiled, kept in a tin or zip bag
- Food-safe oil (mineral or camellia oil) in a small dropper bottle
- Linseed oil for wooden handles, plus a metal can with a lid for used rags
- Grade 0000 steel wool or a rust eraser
- Wet-and-dry paper in 400, 600 and 1000 grit and a small sanding block
- Leather grease or beeswax dressing
- Old toothbrush and wooden toothpicks for pivots and saw slots
- Spare hardwood and steel wedges for the axe
Step by step
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1 Clean off sap and dirt
Wipe blade, axe head and saw clean right after the trip. Resin comes off with a little oil or alcohol. Always wipe from the spine side, never along the edge.
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2 Dry everything completely
Dry the steel, the handle and the junction between them with a cloth, then leave the tools in the open air for an hour. Sheaths and masks dry separately at room temperature.
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3 Oil the steel thinly
Put two or three drops of oil on a cloth and wipe a thin film over blade, spine and axe head. Use a food-safe oil on anything that cuts food.
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4 Feed wood and leather
Rub a thin coat of linseed oil into wooden handles a few times a year and wipe off the excess. Dry the oily rags flat outdoors: crumpled up, they can self-ignite.
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5 Store dry, out of the leather
Keep the tools in a dry room with the knife beside its sheath, not inside it. Check the axe head for tightness before the next trip.
Common mistakes
- Putting a wet knife back into its leather sheath and leaving it there until the next trip.
- Leaving linseed-oil rags crumpled in a bin or bag instead of drying them flat outdoors or sinking them in water.
- Standing a loose axe in water: tight for a day, looser than before afterwards.
- Attacking light rust with coarse sandpaper or a wire wheel and grinding away sound steel and the finish.
- Drying leather or a wooden handle on a stove or radiator, which cracks both and loosens the axe head.
- Oiling thickly: sticky blades collect grit, and uncured linseed oil leaves a gummy skin on the handle.
- Treating care as a substitute for sharpening, or working on with a head that has started to move.